Gemstone Ratings

When buying a colored gemstone, many people do not pay adequate attention to the gemstone’s rating.  Since colored gemstones are less expensive than diamonds and their colors tend to help hide flaws in the stone, people tend to be more forgiving with their analysis of the gems they purchase. However, when determining whether a particular piece of jewelry is a great deal or whether it is overpriced, knowing the gemstone’s rating is very important. To help educate customers on finding out the value of a gemstone, we’ve pulled together a quick guide to gemstone ratings.

How Gemstones Are Graded

As with diamonds, colored gemstones are valued and rated with the 4 C’s: cut, clarity, color and carat.  Once the gemstone has been evaluated on these four criteria, a final grade is given to the gem. The final grade falls on a scale of AAA – D, with AAA being near perfect and D being a poor quality gemstone.

What The Gemstone Grades Mean

A Rating: An A rated gemstone is a good quality gemstone. The gem is well cut, has a good transparency and lets light through, and has few inclusions. For top quality gemstones, there is also an AA and AAA rating. These ratings are reserved for exceptional gems, especially with precious stones like rubies, emeralds and sapphires. Semi-precious stones such as amethyst and garnet seem to pass more easily with a AA rating.

B Rating: B rated gemstones have minor to light inclusions, and the color of the stone isn’t the optimal color. The stone is still transparent, however, and many B quality stones are still used for smaller gemstones in jewelry.

C Rating: C rated gemstones have visible inclusions, as well as portions that are not entirely transparent.  The translucency does not allow as much light to pass through, which makes these stones less sparkly and more flat (dull) to the eye. C rated gemstones are rarely used in larger sizes, and are sometimes used as chip stones in pave and micro pave sizes.

D Rating: D rated gemstones are heavily included, obviously translucent and allow minimal light through. D rated gemstones are suitable for use as cabochons or rock-like pieces, but do not have a high value. 

Gemstone Rating Tips to Keep In Mind

Unlike a specific grading report where a gemstone is evaluated clearly on each of the 4 C’s, a gemstone’s grade is somewhat open to interpretation and can be fuzzy. Gemstone grades can be particularly confusing to the untrained eye of a consumer, and some unscrupulous jewelers take advantage of this fact by inflating the grading on their colored gemstones.

When in doubt, or when buying a very expensive gemstone, ask for the full grading report that has detailed information on the 4 C’s to evaluate the gemstone’s worth. For most gemstone purchases however, if the color is the hue what you want and the ring looks beautiful and sparkly to the eye, it is probably a good quality gem.

Check out our lovely selection of gorgeous, high quality gemstone jewelry at Apples of Gold.

How To Store Jewelry

Once you’ve found the perfect pair of earrings, have been given a gorgeous gold cross, or snagged your dream engagement ring, it’s time to start taking good care of them. Regular cleaning and polishing is a must, but properly storing jewelry is just as important. It is likely that your most treasured pieces will spend much more time in storage than they will being worn, which is why storing jewelry in the best possible way can make a significant impact on the lifespan of your items. In particular, there are a few jewelry items that require extra attention when storing to keep them looking as beautiful as the day they were purchased, including pearls, gold, silver, and gemstone jewelry.

How to Store Pearl Jewelry

Pearl jewelry in particular is very delicate and requires proper storage. Always store pearls in a soft, non-abrasive environment. This can include anything from a Chinese silk pouch to the soft suede lining of a jewelry box. Keep in mind that pearls should not be stored with other jewelry since the soft surface of the pearl can be easily scratched and damaged. All it takes is a few too many rubs against your diamond earrings to permanently ruin the smooth, lacquered surface of your favorite pearls.

Also, though storing necklaces by hanging them is a common method to prevent tangling, pearl necklaces should always be stored flat. Since they are strung together with delicate fabric threads, hanging pearl necklaces can stretch them out. The only way to fix a stretched out pearl necklace is to have it restrung, which can be costly depending on the intricacy of the design.

How to Store Yellow, White and Rose Gold Jewelry

Gold, though less delicate than pearls, can also be dented or scratched. One of the most common ways that gold jewelry loses its smooth finish is by being jostled around in a jewelry bag with harder metals and gemstones. For this reason, it is extremely important to never store gold jewelry in the same bag as gemstones – especially if the bag is going to be moved around frequently (traveling, looking for jewelry, etc.).

Gold jewelry is best stored in a stationary jewelry box in its own compartment. This prevents gold from being scratched by gemstones, and also conveniently keeps jewelry perfectly organized. The easier your items are found, the more you will wear them.

How To Store Silver Jewelry

If you haven’t already, check out our previous article about the proper care and cleaning of silver jewelry.  The proper storage of sterling silver requires an airtight container that minimizes the amount of oxygen exposed to the jewelry. Oxygen causes sterling silver jewelry to quickly tarnish, though special cloths can be purchased that absorb and minimize oxygen to reduce the incidence of tarnish. Like gold, sterling silver should also be stored separately from gemstone jewelry to prevent unwanted scratches and nicks.

How to Store Gemstone Jewelry

One of the most important rules in storing gemstone jewelry is to keep it well away from the rest of your jewelry. Gemstones are much harder than most precious metals, and have sharp edges that easily nick and scratch the surface of other jewelry. In general, each piece of gemstone jewelry should be store separately – not in a separate box, but so the piece is not touching another piece of jewelry. The soft ring holder sections of jewelry boxes are ideal for this task, since they can hold rings and earrings upright, away from other pieces – protecting all your precious gems.

March Birthstone: Aquamarine, “Sea Water”

The Aquamarine is one of the most treasured stones today for its hardness and resistance to elements. It is also considered the ‘poor man’s diamond’–while it is a hard mineral, it is abundantly mined since the 19th century in Brazil & Africa,  and therefore, more affordable than diamonds.

There is much lore attributed to the Aquamarine gemstone. Owing to its color,  the ancient Romans put into the user its name from the Latin word “aqua“, which means water; and “mare“, which means sea.   But the official reference to the gemstone was first applied in a significant publication on gemological study which was published in 1609 entitled, Gemmarum et Lapidum Historia by Anselmus de Boodt.  In one of the more famous stories, its origin is supposed to have come from the depths of the ocean, washed ashore in a jeweled trunk, supposedly a gift from the mermaids and from the Roman god of the sea, Neptune. Its direct reference to the sea also made the aquamarine a popular gem or amulet among sailors and pirates alike.

It was said that possession of the stone while on a sea voyage brought prosperity and insurance of safe passage no matter what the sea conditions might be.

But these are not the only known effects of Aquamarine to early societies. The aquamarine gemstone was also admired by the early Sumerians, Egyptians and Hebrews because it symbolized happiness and everlasting youth. It is also known to be effective in reconciliation of enemies, as an antidote to poison (during the middle ages), it blesses and prospers young love, reawakens love between married couples, render soldiers courageous and invincible in the face of battle, and as the wearer, it makes you friendlier, quicker in intellect and is a supposed cure of laziness. Like many gemstones, much mystical power is attribute to it–some false, and one hopes, some true.

On the biological front, aquamarine was considered a popular cure for afflictions that involved the digestive tract.

And yet, the most interesting history of the Aquamarine gemstone is its supposed ability to foretell the future. That’s right, this stone in crystal form is a favorite among fortune tellers.

The Aquamarine, it has been said, is also the perfect and appropriate post-honeymoon gift to your bride after your first night as husband and wife.

Apples of Gold has a fine selection of Aquamarine rings, earrings, and aquamarine pendants that can be cherish and admired through the generations when well cared for. Visit ApplesofGold.Com to view our entire selection!

Gemstone Pendants

Colorful jewelry will not only brighten up your day, but can also brighten up your face and  your wardrobe.  Many jewelry patrons are afraid to leave the secure feeling that comes with purchasing basic gold, silver, and diamond jewelry and explore other beautiful gemstone options; especially ones with an abundance of color.

Apples of Gold Jewelry has a great selection of Gemstone Pendants to get you out of your jewelry rut and into some color!  A faultless choice would be the lovely Garnet Heart Clover Pendant in 14k white gold.  This pendant comes in a assortment of white gold chain lengths, form 16 to 20 inches, that can allow the pendant to sit beautifully on any wearer’s chest.   The pendant itself is awe-inspiring.  Red heart shaped Garnet gemstones are craftily arranged in a circle using white gold prongs to give the appearance of a clover.  In the middle of the clover arrangement sits one single .01 carat diamond surround by a solid white gold circle.  Finishing off the look, all 3.50 carats of garnet gemstones are suspended from a white gold chain with a bold white gold ornament.

Another exceptional selection from Apples of Gold would have to be the Blue Topaz Pear Shaped Diamond Pendant, also in 14K white gold. This spectacular piece of jewelry includes an over-sized Blue Topaz pear shaped gemstone held in white gold prongs while hanging delicately from a v-shaped white gold piece studded with 4 diamonds at the base.   However, when the white gold chain is threaded through the pendant, a striking design is revealed. The chain forms a horizontal line between the v-shaped white gold pieces creating a look and feel of luxurious art.  Other technical specifications include 2.65 grams of white gold, 10.25 carat Blue Topaz, and .03 carats diamond total.

It’s hard to resist these colorful options or any others when browsing the attractive selection of gemstone jewelry at Apples of Gold.

Blue Topaz Ring – December Birthstone

“And thou shalt set in it settings of stones, even four rows of stones: the first row shall be a sardius, a topaz, and a carbuncle: this shall be the first row” (Exodus 28:17).

Most scholars agree that the concept of birthstones had its origins not in the celestial sphere or the zodiac, but in the Breastplate of Aaron or the Hoshen, a ceremonial breastplate worn by the High Priest of the Israelites adorned with twelve gemstones representing the twelve tribes of Israel–and later perhaps, a foreshadowing of the Twelve Apostles.

Because the ancients did not classify gemstones based on their mineral species, various cultures assigned a mystical or symbolic meaning to each gemstone instead. The Hebrews, the Romans, and the Arabs assigned ruby to the month of December, whereas Hindus chose Topaz, and the Russian and Polish chose Turquoise–all of which now serve as alternate gemstones for the month of December.

Topaz Gemstone Facts:

• Pure topaz is actually colorless and translucent but is usually tinted by small impurities. Typically colorless, gray, or pale, topaz is heat treated and irradiated to obtain its blue hue.

• Based on the Mohs Scale of Hardness, topaz has a hardness of 8. The Mohs Scale rates mineral hardness on a scale of 1 to 10 (10 being diamond). Precious metals such as gold and silver are rated between 2.5 to 3, platinum is rated between 4 to 4.5, titanium comes in at 6, tungsten at 7.5, and tungsten carbide at 8 to 8.5.

• Blue Topaz is the Texas state gemstone, often cut by the Lone Star design. The Texas Natural Science Center exhibits a 1778 carat blue topaz found in a Brazilian mine (Wikipedia).

There are several varieties of the blue topaz common to the jewelry industry:

• Sky blue topaz — this is the most common blue topaz used in jewelry, referred to simply as blue topaz. This variety is similar in color to aquamarine but without aquamarine’s gray undertone.
• Swiss blue topaz — this variety has a more saturated appearance compared to sky blue topaz and is sometimes referred to as electric blue topaz.
• London blue topaz — this type of topaz has a steely, grayish, and deep blue color. This is the darkest blue topaz variety available in jewelry.

Symbolism and Meaning of the Topaz

There is some confusion regarding the mystical meaning of the topaz gemstone because most mythology surrounding the stone was based on the yellow topaz (alternative November birthstone). Topaz was associated with the sun, due to its fiery color, and like many gemstones, was considered a royal gemstone.

Depending on where you research your information, there are often numerous meanings associated with each gemstone. But with topaz, the consensus seems to declare that topaz is the gemstone of understanding, wisdom, and fulfillment.

Topaz is said to promote clear vision and understanding both of the self and of the world at large, making topaz the stone of both self-realization and worldly wisdom.

Topaz is also said to promote creativity, individuality, and self-expression. Other meanings include the topaz gemstone as a protective stone, a healing stone, and a promoter of truth.

As one of the stones in Hoshen or the Breastplate of Aaron, topaz inherently contains within its abstract and metaphysical properties a spiritual depth unrivaled by many gemstones. Although it is sometimes disputed whether the Biblical text referred to a yellow topaz or chrysolite (another yellow stone), in Jewish writings, the topaz is said to bring blessings of joy and abundance to one’s life.

Apples of Gold Jewelry offers many unique blue topaz rings.

A Brief History of Jewelry in the Middle Ages- Renaissance Periods

Early civilizations’ discovery of gold and the possibilities it presented were nothing short of wondrous. Gold–its malleability and versatility to be molded into various shapes and sizes of jewelry made it (and still makes it) the most popular metal to work with. It was approximately 5,000 B.C when different civilizations all over the world discovered gold and began to work this metal into pieces to frame precious stones into. In Central and South America, China, India, and Egypt, gold became the metal of choice to make into elaborate or simple pieces of jewelry.

The Middle Ages had seen the utilitarian and functional use of jewelry. Gemstones like ruby, garnet, and sapphire found their way into the fashion of the time heavily incorporated into clothes, brooches, clasps, belts and hats. Strings of pearls and gold chains were used as popular belts during these times.

It was also during the middle ages when Poesy rings became a fad. These rings symbolized a token of affection or friendship. A short, personal sentiment–mostly about love and friendship–can be found as inscriptions on or inside poesy rings and were exchanged between lovers and friends. In Roman history, a cameo was introduced bearing the icons of nobility and popular political leaders of the time.

This period also saw the introduction of several designs that are still popular today. A couple of these are the Celtic and Byzantine designs. Intricate, elaborate and beautiful, these designs are still very sought after in present times.

Religious-themed jewelry also became popular during this period. Crosses and icons of Christianity i.e. papal rings, rosary beads, pendants with the saints and other religious figures were introduced around this era.

Inspired by the amount of gemstones and pearls traded all around, craftsmen and goldsmiths designed opulent, extravagant pieces of jewelry. And since it came with a hefty price, only the nobility and those in the upper strata could afford it. In addition, it was around this time that the Sumptuary Law (laws attempting to regulate consumption, especially of luxury items) was enforced. This was the law which governed who could wear what jewelry and was supposed to protect the top nobility’s status in the society.

If the medieval period saw the rapid development of jewelry making and its application to various situations, the Renaissance on the other hand, simply refined these changes. It was at this time that the Sumptuary Law was lifted and the nobility, being conscious of standing apart from the masses, sought master craftsmen and goldsmiths to customize and design jewelry for them. Beautiful pieces of jewelry became the object of desire. Quality became increasingly important. It was at this point that jewelry as a symbol of wealth and social status became a distinct and expensive truth.

This period saw the continued popularity of gemstones set in gold and silver. The European trade with the East had brought with it vast exposure to artists, goldsmiths, and jewelry craftsmen. The era also introduced the tradition of matching jewelry with clothes and other accessories. This practice was said to have been encouraged by Napoleon Bonaparte while he was King of France.

Truly we can say that these two eras ushered in a brilliant development for jewelry design, uses, and the craft  as a whole. Many types of jewelry that were introduced in these periods are still very popular today.

(End of the Second in a Three-Part Series)