February Birthstone: The Gift of Amethyst

Next to the holiday season, February may be the second most exciting month in the calendar because of the worldwide celebration of Valentine’s Day. Couples especially look forward to celebrate the day with romantic dinner dates and meaningful gifts. February is also the perfect time to give the gift of Amethyst.

Amethyst is the birthstone for people born in February.  Like most semi-precious stones, the name Amethyst is of greek origin: a- (“not) and methustos (“intoxicated”)”.  The name is derived from Greek mythology but one that has spawned many versions. The most popular though is the one  which involved  the god of wine Dionysus/Bacchus and the goddess Artemis. According to the legend, Dionysus, being the appointed god of wine, merriment and intoxication wanted the mortals to do as they are told: to be merry, jovial and drunken.  However, when one man refused to do so, Dionysus took the refusal as a great  insult and vowed to punish any mortal that would cross his path at that moment.

The young Amethyst at that time was just on her way to the temple to give her offering to the goddess Artemis. Blinded by his wrath, Dionysus set forth two tigers to attack the young maiden. To protect her, she was turned into a pure crystalline quartz by the  goddess Artemis and when the god Dionysus realized his mistake, he poured a cup of wine over the quartz  and turned it into what is now known as the Amethyst gemstone.   From that time on, the Amethyst stone is worn to protect the wearer from drunkenness. On a deeper level, it is believed to repel negative energy, enables calmness of spirit, and peace of mind.

The Amethyst is the most desirable of the quartz family with its varying hues and shades of purple but has rare variety in shades of orange, yellow, pink, and green Amethyst.  The most popular hue is the deep-purplish color- usually worn by cardinals & popes because it is supposed to encourage celibacy and sobriety; and was highly-preferred as well by the ancient royalty from Egypt to Europe. The color of this gemstone inspired so many kings and queens to include this gem in their royal jewelry possessions. Since then, purple has been associated with the nobility.  The earliest use of Amethyst  was found during the Neolithic era but it was only became widely abundant in 3000 B.C. with the discovery of jewelry  in Egypt and Asia that can be traced back to that time.

The Amethyst gemstone  is widely available at Apples of Gold Jewelry with many selections  of Amethyst rings, Amethyst pendants, and Amethyst earrings.  This February, nothing is more perfect than giving the gift of Amethyst.

The Garnet Attraction: January Birthstone

As one of  few ancient gemstones existing today, Garnets have found their exclusive place under the sun. Its earliest use as adornment could be traced back to around 3,000 B.C., as evidenced by remnants of garnet jewelry found in the Nile Delta. Ancient Egyptians have created bracelets, necklaces, and other body adornment made from this hard stone.  However, it was the Greeks who gave this gemstone its name.  History reveals the name was largely influenced by its physical appearance, more specifically of its color and the way it clumps itself together like the pomegranate fruit–and yes, you guessed it right: this was  the fruit this gemstone was named after.

The Garnet is an exceptionally versatile gemstone. Though it is popular by a couple of varieties called the Almandine and Pyrope, whose rich hues runs from dark red to brownish red, it has many other color varieties that practically covers the entire spectrum, except for the color blue. The Garnet has dark and light hues, some with translucent properties and one that exudes a rainbow of color, including pink, red, purple, orange, yellow, violet, green, and albeit rarely black & brown.  Interestingly enough, its hardness has also been a popular tool to use as an abrasive for wood, metal, plastic, glass and leather. Once upon a time, it was even used as bullets by tribes in the East. According to the Mohs Scale, the Garnet stone ranges from six to seven in hardness, meaning it has high propensity to crack when dropped or upon impact with another hard object or surface.

According to jewelry.com, the Garnet’s many varieties can be recognized through its colors:

“Almandine, the most common type, is dark red to brownish red. Pyrope is blood red. Rhodolite, one of the most popular varieties, ranges from pink to purplish red and is mined in Africa, India and Sri Lanka. Malaya, a mixed variety found in Tanzania and Kenya, ranges from orange to gold. Tsavorite is bright yellow green to grass green and is also mined in Tanzania and Kenya. Demantoid is primarily found in Russia. Hessonite and spessartite mostly come in golds, oranges and browns. Mandarin is a bright orange type of spessartite recently found in Namibia. Grossular is available in pinks, greens and yellows.”

More than it’s beautiful range of colors, the Garnet is also a popular gem among believers of the spiritual world. It is believed to possess mystical properties that helps the wearer achieve vitality, courage and self-confidence. It also is the gemstone associated with love, passion and sensuality.

More importantly, this particular gem is said to resolve conflicts resulting from abandonment and aids couple to commit to each other better. Another legend linked to this gemstone dates back to biblical times and that it was believed to have been use by Noah to light the ark during the great flood.

Garnets are beautiful presents for second wedding anniversary occasion, as well as for individuals who celebrates their birthday in the month of January.  It certainly makes for a very attractive choice for jewelers and gemstone fans alike.

Apples of Gold Jewelry has  a beautiful array of Garnet rings, Garnet Pendants, and more Gemstone Jewelry, Gemstone Pendants, and Gemstone Earrings to choose from. Take your pick!

Image:  Garnet Matrix (by the Gem & Mineral Exploration Company)

Once Upon A Jewelry

There is a treasure trove of historical information regarding jewelry of the bygone days. We all know about rings, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, and pendants because they are very much in existence today. But do you know that there is at least one kind of jewelry that was so much en vogue in the 17th century?  This was the kind worn by high society and the nobility and were often featured in their life-sized paintings by the grand master painters of centuries past.  Unfortunately for us, these pieces have not been worn publicly beginning in the early 18th century and has since been relegated into the closets of museums and auction houses.

We are talking about stomacher jewelry or stomacher brooch jewelry. It was first introduced in Spain in the early 1600 and was quickly adapted as a fashion trend in the whole of Europe. Wikipedia defines a Stomacher as :

“… a decorated triangular panel that fills in the front opening of a woman’s gown or bodice. Stomachers were often embroidered, or covered in pearls, diamonds and other jewels.”

In many instances, a stomacher is created in interlocking sections (see photo at left), which could be worn together or individually depending on the occasion and the wearer’s whim. It could also be part of a set of jewelry that includes a ring, earring, bracelet and a pendant.  Originally designed with beautiful embroidery, it was during the renaissance period that precious stones, pearls and diamonds were incorporated through sewing onto the stomacher fabric.  The design is very  ornate that usually extends from the neckline to about 10 inches deep into the waistline. The workmanship, the details and the amount of jewelry set into it is awe-inspiring, to say the least.

Moreover, stomachers were not permanently affixed to the dress; it was simply held together by pins, usually under the bustier, and can be removed to pair with another dress that matched it. It was a must-have accessory for a woman who wanted her wealth and status affirmed.

No one really knows why this fashion did not take off like every other piece of jewelry still in use today. We could only surmise. But the more important thing is once upon a time, history lent us a period when man’s creativity, and to some extent its profligacy, reached the degree that it did during the trend of the Stomachers.

Jewelry: A Modern Story

Jewelry’s modern story begins in the late 19^th century, which heralded many historic events affecting jewelry making and design, including:  

1. The birth and success of the industrial revolution;

2. The introduction of fashion and costume jewelry, and;

3. The launch of high-quality jewelry firms that have continued the tradition of fine jewelry into the 21^st century.

 

The industrialization of this age led to more jobs for the masses, ergo, economic freedom for the majority. This social phenomenon somewhat diminished the reputation of jewelry as a symbol of social rank. The new wealth created by this economic boom afforded the working class the option of buying jewelry that mostly matches their tastes. It is also important to note that as a result of this new economic opportunity, we witnessed the birth of society’s Middle Class.

 

The demand for affordable and simple-design jewelry increased. For supply to keep up jewelry was mass-produced and this in turn cheapened the market price.  Usually made from imitation of precious stones and electro-plated gold and silver, this jewelry eventually became known as fashion/costume jewelry that is devoid of intrinsic value. But it became a hit with many in the populace as it could be versatile and very inexpensive.

 

Men, for the majority of history up to this point, wore an equal amount of jewelry as women. But in this period, men’s jewelry was greatly reduced to buttons, cufflinks, and rings. At the same time, threatened by middle class consumption of something previously and exclusively enjoyed by the nobility, the wealthy sought the services of master craftsmen and goldsmiths to design personalized and high quality jewelry for them instead.

 

Fortunately, the 19^th century had provided for this particular need. There were several notable firms founded in this period that propagated the fine jewelry tradition well into the present times. Among them are by Peter Carl Faberge in 1900 Russia; Alfred and his son Louis Cartier in 1898, Paris; Charles Lewis Tiffany in 1851, New York; Bulgari in 1884, Rome; and Patek Philippe in 1851, Geneva (an acknowledged pillar of the timepieces industry).

 

Watches and matching jewelry were introduced in this period and have remained a significant part of jewelry ownership.

 

One thing we can affirm is that modern day jewelry is a thoroughly eclectic collection of various, differing cultures and religions; as well as from the artistry of craftsmen and goldsmiths who once upon their time, dabbled in the design and indulged the whims of their richer patrons.

A Brief History of Jewelry in the Middle Ages- Renaissance Periods

Early civilizations’ discovery of gold and the possibilities it presented were nothing short of wondrous. Gold–its malleability and versatility to be molded into various shapes and sizes of jewelry made it (and still makes it) the most popular metal to work with. It was approximately 5,000 B.C when different civilizations all over the world discovered gold and began to work this metal into pieces to frame precious stones into. In Central and South America, China, India, and Egypt, gold became the metal of choice to make into elaborate or simple pieces of jewelry.

The Middle Ages had seen the utilitarian and functional use of jewelry. Gemstones like ruby, garnet, and sapphire found their way into the fashion of the time heavily incorporated into clothes, brooches, clasps, belts and hats. Strings of pearls and gold chains were used as popular belts during these times.

It was also during the middle ages when Poesy rings became a fad. These rings symbolized a token of affection or friendship. A short, personal sentiment–mostly about love and friendship–can be found as inscriptions on or inside poesy rings and were exchanged between lovers and friends. In Roman history, a cameo was introduced bearing the icons of nobility and popular political leaders of the time.

This period also saw the introduction of several designs that are still popular today. A couple of these are the Celtic and Byzantine designs. Intricate, elaborate and beautiful, these designs are still very sought after in present times.

Religious-themed jewelry also became popular during this period. Crosses and icons of Christianity i.e. papal rings, rosary beads, pendants with the saints and other religious figures were introduced around this era.

Inspired by the amount of gemstones and pearls traded all around, craftsmen and goldsmiths designed opulent, extravagant pieces of jewelry. And since it came with a hefty price, only the nobility and those in the upper strata could afford it. In addition, it was around this time that the Sumptuary Law (laws attempting to regulate consumption, especially of luxury items) was enforced. This was the law which governed who could wear what jewelry and was supposed to protect the top nobility’s status in the society.

If the medieval period saw the rapid development of jewelry making and its application to various situations, the Renaissance on the other hand, simply refined these changes. It was at this time that the Sumptuary Law was lifted and the nobility, being conscious of standing apart from the masses, sought master craftsmen and goldsmiths to customize and design jewelry for them. Beautiful pieces of jewelry became the object of desire. Quality became increasingly important. It was at this point that jewelry as a symbol of wealth and social status became a distinct and expensive truth.

This period saw the continued popularity of gemstones set in gold and silver. The European trade with the East had brought with it vast exposure to artists, goldsmiths, and jewelry craftsmen. The era also introduced the tradition of matching jewelry with clothes and other accessories. This practice was said to have been encouraged by Napoleon Bonaparte while he was King of France.

Truly we can say that these two eras ushered in a brilliant development for jewelry design, uses, and the craft  as a whole. Many types of jewelry that were introduced in these periods are still very popular today.

(End of the Second in a Three-Part Series)

Jewelry: A Walk Through Time

The term jewelry came into the English language in the mid-thirteenth century; it is derived from the French word joule, which in turn came from the Latin word jocale; the term roughly translates to as plaything.

Curiously, what began as a mere plaything became an important part of every society, and through all and every culture, in mankind’s history. The use of jewelry is one of the few practices that has remained to endure time and change-whether social, cultural or political.

As jewelry use surpassed its primordial function as playthings to our prehistoric man, it then evolved into a symbolic accent to denote an individual’s social and religious rank. Moreover, gemstones in particular, were the popular jewelry of choice to ward off evil spirits, and were preferred by the more superstitious culture. Much later, jewelries were incorporated into functional and practical uses in clothes as buttons and accessories. Gold, on the other hand, served as a currency to trade or buy other goods.

Most of us living today may not know it, but wearing jewelry dates back to as far as 85,000 years ago. Based on the most recent archeological find at Grotte des Pigeons, Taforalt in Eastern Morocco, shell beads coated with red ochre are believed to be the oldest form of ornament or jewelry used in prehistoric time. In addition, early ancestors of modern jewelry were made, crudely and simply, from various natural materials like beets, stones, teeth and shell beads, strung together to form a necklace, anklet, or armlet. Among these ancient forms, it was the shell beads that had amazingly survived time, particularly of the genus Nassarius, the same kind of shell beads previously found in the caves of Israel and Algeria.

There are no existing data that points to when exactly the practice of burying jewelry with its owner began. Most discoveries of these ancient pieces were found in tombs- from the Egyptians to Roman burial chambers; from the caves of prehistoric man to the Incas and Mayans, these jewelries were buried together with the owners. Historians can only assume that the owner may be a high-ranking spiritual or tribe leader to afford to be buried with their possessions.  These days, jewelry is passed on to the next generation of family members.

Archeologists have acknowledged that there is no conclusive evidence the latest find is the oldest they will ever find. Like the previous discoveries, it is simply a matter of time before another string of shell beads will turn up. As to when, only luck knows!

(End of the First in a Three-Part Series)

Next week: A look into the use of jewelry in the Middle Ages-Renaissance periods.

Photograph courtesy Ian Cartwright, Institute of Archaeology, Oxford University